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Surfing and biking from the beginning

15 Jan

I learned to surf and ride motorcycles in the same year, when I was 15 and with my best buddy, Arnold Onaga. (Arnold died two years ago. I’m sure I’ll be writing more about Arn.)

I can’t explain the linkage well, but I’ll try to convey that over the course of this blog. Bruce Brown understood it well. After big and unexpected success with The Endless Summer he made On Any Sunday, and that was it, he was done. Both movies influenced me greatly, setting cornerstones for my life.

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